2025 – Page 7 – RV Travels in Europe and North America

April 2, 2025 Calais FR

We enjoyed a relaxing morning and Ton whipped up a nice breakfast before we set out for Calais. We began by repeating our walk from yesterday up the promenade to see a giant mechanical dragon that had caught Tons fancy. It is a giant thing on wheels that is about 30 feet tall, for a significant fee you can purchase a ticket to ride on the back. Right as we entered the promenade I saw it in the distance moving around. By the time we arrived it had retreated to its lair (in this case a large glass building), and it didn’t look like it was coming out. We hung around hoping for a few minutes but then the crew that operates it walked away so we decided to move on.

The dragon is impressive it even shoots fire out of its mouth.

We had a pleasant stroll thru town, and while it was windy we decided it was slightly less windy than yesterday. The first part of the town is on an island and guards the mouth of the ancient harbor that put Calais on the map. Today the main town is on the mainland, and the old town is mostly restaurants and hotels catering to tourists.

This statue of de Gaulle and his wife commemorates the fact that she is from Calais and they were married here in 1924.

We had seen a large clock tower off in the distance from the campground that is attached to the Hotel de Ville (town hall) so that was the next stop on our impromptu walking tour. In addition to the clock tower which wasn’t as nice up close as from a distance there was a statue by Rodin in the gardens.

Actually the clock tower and town hall look nicer in this picture than I remember in person. While it looks old it was built in 1925.

The statue by Rodin commemorates 6 burghers of Calais who surrendered the town to the English after a long seige in the 1300’s. They were to be executed but the English kings wife intervened to grant them clemency. I liked this piece a lot but Ton was not as impressed.

Calais was once a center for lace production so we decided to head to the lace district and check out the church there. After another longish walk we arrived at a square full of cars with a large church. Ton wasn’t impressed she looked at me and said since we walked all of this way I will take a picture. She took her picture and said what is next?

The art museum was free today, or possibly is free everyday we never quite sorted that out, but we arrived about 10 minutes before it officially opened at 1pm and took a seat in the lobby. There were four workers at the front desk staring at us and we in turn stared at them while we waited for the countdown to the stroke of 1pm. Finally, at 12:58 one of the workers came over and invited us in, only to be chastised by another worker, she then turned sheepishly to us and said 2 more minutes. Precisely at 1pm we were presented our free tickets and allowed to enter.

The entrance to the art museum in Calais. They are very punctual but the price is right.

It was a mix of art from many ages and while small there were some interesting paintings and sculptures from different ages that kept us engaged. A large part of it was being remodeled so the displays didn’t take that long to get thru.

We liked this dress with a face hidden in it.

There was a film running about a French artist named Zlotykamien who may have been the original graffiti artist. He started out as a fairly renown artist in the 50’s, but was looking for a different canvas for his work. He found it by painting figures he called ephemerals on walls in cities. Art is in the eye of the beholder, I am not sure if I came across his stuff on a wall in Calais I would recognize it as the work of a famous artist. You can look at the picture below and be your own judge.

The next stop was the highlight of the day for me. This region is famous for a dish called the Welsh Sandwich. It is a dish consisting primarily of melted cheddar cheese with something floating in it. Why it is called a Welsh sandwich is a bit of a mystery as there is no bread in it, and no direct connection to Wales. We headed to the L’Hovercraft Cafe as they were supposed to have the best Welsh Sandwiches.

My Welsh Sandwich Complet. The most traditional of the 18 Sandwiches on the menu.

We sat down and I opened the menu to find they had 18 different Welsh Sandwiches on the menu. I went with the traditional one which consists of ham and an egg with lots of cheddar cheese. As a fan of cheddar cheese I was in heaven, but even I had to admit it was a lot of cheese. To give your heart a complete workout it was served with fries. Ton ordered the plate of the day which consisted of potatoes swimming in a different kind of cheese and a charcuterie plate.

Tons dish also had a healthy amount of melted cheese.

We decided at lunch there were a couple of other places in the region we wanted to stay so we decided to add a third night to our stay here. When we arrived at the campground I asked for a third night and they were happy to oblige, and then told me it would cost €1.20. It turns out if you stay three nights the third one is free except for a tax. We were quite pleased.

April 1, 2025 Calais FR

Today was a day to move. We enjoyed Delft but it was time to get on the road so we decided to make a pretty long jump down to Calais France. It is a place we haven’t visited on our travels.

We made one stop on the way out of town to have a mechanic look at a problem we have with François. We are getting an alarm when we start the truck that there is a fault with the airbag. We had hoped the place yesterday could deal with it, but they told us we needed to go to a Fiat garage. Our second stop at Fiat service centers (the first one did cars only and directed us to the one that does Ducatos our van.) We met a very nice and chatty guy who checked out François confirmed it was a problem with the computer and told us we were all right to drive as long as we didn’t have an accident. We have a date scheduled to return at the end of the trip to get the problem taken care of.

A ferry departing the port of Calais. It was named after Oscar Wilde who I always assumed was English, but turns out to have been Irish.

The drive was uneventful except for a major detour in Antwerp due to a tunnel being repaired. We followed the signs for the detour, but at the last second I made a wrong turn and went the wrong way on the freeway so we got to repeat the detour. I was not happy with myself or the Belgian traffic people who marked the detour!

Beach huts on the 4 mile long Calais Beach.

We arrived at the campground in Calais about 3:30 and settled in. The day looked beautiful with bright blue skies. Unfortunately the wind was howling and the wind chill was 41 degrees. We bundled up and tackled the promenade along the beach. The beach is beautiful fine sand and the promenade is full of interesting looking places, most of which were closed up for the season. The weather is supposed to be better tomorrow so we will spend more time exploring.

March 31, 2025 Keukenhof NE

There are two places we have been meaning to visit in the Netherlands but have not gotten to yet, one is the Van Gogh Museum, and the other is Keukenhof. When we first arrived we decided to go to Keukenhof. It is less expensive if you buy the parking and tickets in advance so we went on line, while there were tickets available on the weekend, the website said the place would be crowded. Since this is the second most visited site in the Netherlands we took that to mean very crowded. Today was not marked crowded and it was supposed to be sunny so we bought the tickets.

Keukenhof is a garden that displays all of the different flowers grown commercially in the Netherlands. The main reason most people come is to look at the Tulips, but there are many other types of flowers on display.

We set the alarm for 8 am because we have both been sleeping in, a combination of cold nights and jet lag. We packed François up and had him ready to go at 9:30, but when I turned the key the battery was dead. I headed up to the office to have them call for a jump start, but they volunteered to send one of their maintenance workers over to give us a jump, and we were on our way just before 10am.

We were in the park at 10:45 and the place was already jumping with people. We both looked at each other and wondered what it was like on a busy day. The place is beautiful, and the various gardens and indoor displays are very beautiful.

The only issue was that it was about a week to 10 days too early for Tulips. There were a few Tulips in bloom, but we mostly had to make due with other types of flowers that were also beautiful. The primary season for Tulips is April and May so we were just a bit too early.

A bubble gum flower from one of the indoor displays.

The other issue was that while the day was beautiful the temperatures where in the low 50’s with a steady wind that made it feel much colder. Everyone was bundled up and the souvenir stores were doing brisk business selling stocking hats, and scarves.

A canal tour boat, notice how cold everyone looks.

We had bought a 45 minute canal tour, we enjoyed it but most of the fields were not in bloom. There were a lot of birds in the fields and some daffodils blooming so all was not lost.

Some of the water fowl on display from the canal.

We spent about 5 hours at Keukenhof and enjoyed ourselves despite the cold temperatures. Even without the Tulips in full bloom the grounds are beautiful and worth a visit as they plant other seasonal flowers during non-Tulip months.

The grounds are beautiful at the gardens. We both really liked the red flower that seems to be inverted in this picture.

Our last stop for the day was a mechanics shop near the campground. I had emailed them to see if I could get some things taken care of. Francois is approaching his 10th birthday and there are a few minor things that need maintenance, and one more major thing that needs taking care of. I had reached out to a place with a good reputation and they had asked us to swing thru to take a look at our issues. They closed at 5 and it looked like we were going to arrive at 4, when just 1.5 kilometers from our exit the freeway came to a complete halt, and the 1.5 kilometers took 45 minutes to negotiate. We arrived at 4:45 but they were kind enough to take a look at our problems. One they offered to work on when we return to the Netherlands, but unfortunately our bigger problem is going to require a trip to a Fiat dealer. So we have to work that into this trip.

Trying to look cool, but I think those days are past.

March 30, 2025 Delft NE

We choose to have a lazy day today. The spring and fall time changes do not line up between the US and Europe so we ended up sleeping an hour later this morning as today was the day for Europeans to spring forward. It didn’t make a lot of difference for us as we had very little planned intentionally.

It was a very blue day, but very windy. François had been rocking all night in the wind and when we finally decided to head into town it was still blowing quite hard. We bundled up and joined the crowds in downtown Delft.

Despite it being chilly and very windy the outside seats at the cafes were still the first choice for most of the diners. We were in the minority who chose to sit inside out of the wind.

Our agenda was very simple, go have a couple of beers at interesting bars. Delft has been a major producer of beer in the Netherlands since the middle ages so we wanted to get a feel for the beer history of the region. Ton had picked out a couple of places that specialized in Dutch and Belgian beers. Our first stop was at a small pub near the church. They had over 30 beers on tap, and after consulting with the owner I choose a Dutch Blond, and Ton choose a “Belgian” dubbel.

The Belgian is in quotes because the bartender explained that the brewer of the beer was a Dutch guy who lived near the Belgian border. He initially brewed his beer in his hometown, but he learned that while Belgian beer was in vogue nobody was interested in Dutch beer. So after a couple of years he bought a place a couple of kilometers away on the Belgian side of the border and sales soared for his “Belgian” beers.

Not all of the outside seating was full.

Ton had picked out another place that had a large selection of Belgian beers, but when we got there all of the inside seating was taken and the substantial outside beer garden was also full. We may return later if the wind is not blowing.

Canals, Bicycles, and tall people because it is the Netherlands.

Our final stop was a small brewery which is the newest in Delft. While the building was being converted to a brewery a stray swing of a sledge hammer uncovered a forgotten cellar under the main floor. This happens quite frequently so the local town archaeologist was brought in and after some investigation he determined that the cellar had been used in the past as a brewery so the building has returned to its original roots.

We sat in the cellar that was the old brewery for our beers. The newest brewery in town has good beers that hopefully make the ghosts of the old brewers proud. We were debating whether to have one more beer when I spotted a place on the man square offering Affogato which is ice cream topped with espresso. Ton loves Affogato so we skipped the beer in favor of dessert. It was a good choice.

Street scene on the walk home. The sign is advertising a Belgian beer.

March 29, Rotterdam NE

Last night Ton proposed a trip to Rotterdam to get us into the swing of things. So we forced ourselves up a little earlier. Ton prepared a nice hearty breakfast. It was our first big meal of the trip. We then set off for the train station for the 15 minute train ride to Rotterdam. In what was going to be a trend for the day, we showed up at the platform just as the doors closed on the train and it began rolling. Fortunately, the next train was in 15 minutes.

Rotterdam’s city center is very different than any other we have visited in Europe. In May of 1940 as the Germans were invading the Netherlands they sent one of the first mass air raids to Rotterdam, in 45 minutes the downtown core of the city was leveled with hundreds of deaths.

More interesting architecture in the down town core of Rotterdam.

After the war most cities tried to reconstruct the buildings that were lost to bombings or battle, but in Rotterdam they decided to start form scratch rather than rebuild the old buildings. The result is a city of very modern and vibrant architecture. It has the feel of an American city, but with European walk ability. We really enjoyed it.

The Market Hall is the largest covered market in Europe.

Our first stop was the Market Hall. It is supposed to be the largest covered market in Europe but I think it depends on how you define big, it certainly is the tallest. It is a giant food court with foods from all over the Netherlands and the world represented in different small restaurants. The interior is a gain arch covered in murals of food, plants, and animals. In addition to all of the restaurants the building also incorporates over 200 apartments. One of these apartments would be perfect for someone who didn’t like to cook!

Our next stop was the flamboyant yellow cube houses. These were built in the 1990’s as a civil development project. The architect promised something unique and he certainly delivered.

Looking up from one of the courtyards in the Cube Houses.

There were originally going to be 70 of these built, but in the end only 38 were completed. While people were interested in looking at them, they are not the most practical places to live so demand was not that high.

A courtyard with several homes. We couldn’t tell if each cube was it’s own place or separate units.

After the food hall, the yellow cubes and the longish walk to get to them our next stop was food. In the Netherlands we have been trying a lot of Surinamese food. It is an interesting blend of Chinese, Indian, and Caribbean food. We were excited to find what was touted as the best Surinamese restaurant in Rotterdam and it looked promising. It was full and informal which is always a good sign that it is the food not the ambiance that is driving business. I liked the food, but Ton was a little disappointed.

Walking to the restaurant we came across this weird looking gnome. It turns out it is a very controversial piece of art here. It is supposed to be Santa Claus holding a Christmas tree, but the Christmas tree looks like a sex toy, (intentionally) so it is called the Buttplug Santa. It has been relocated several times as merchants are not amused, though it must have fans as it keeps finding a new home.

We had been reading about what the Lonely Planet called the best bar in the world so we decided to check it out. Unfortunately it was not open when we went by so Ton’s culinary experience in Rotterdam was disappointing.

The entrance to the “best bar” in the world.

Luckily we saw a nice bar on our way to the train station so Ton was able to enjoy a nice Dutch beer while I settled on a Czech Pilsner. We arrived on the platform for what was to be a quick ride back to Delft only to see our train pulling out. Luckily there was another in about 20 minutes so we moved over. When we arrived in Delft we found that we had missed our bus to the campground by 3 minutes, the next one was in 27 minutes but it did not turn up. We finally got a bus 57 minutes after arriving. So while the trains and busses run frequently we did not have very good luck with them today.

March 28, 2025 Delft NE

We had another late start to the day as a combination of jet lag, and iffy weather kept us in bed until late. We lounged around all of the morning until about 1pm when Ton suggested a walk to town.

This blue heart is supposed to represent the heart of the city of Delft. It is blue because Delft is famous for blue pottery.

We had visited Delft last year and spent a couple of nights. We spent one day checking out the town, and used it as a base to explore the Hague for another couple of days. Ton wanted to go back to a couple of the sites and check them out again.

The obligatory canal and bicycle picture.

After a short 25 minute walk we were in the main square of the town. As we expected it had not changed. The square is nice, and Delft is on the tourism trail as it is famous for its blue pottery, and as the home of the girl with the pearl earring. Scarlett Johansen starred in this movie a few years ago and it still drives visitors to Delft.

Street art of the Girl with the Pearl Earring. The paining is sometimes referred to as the Mona Lisa of the North and was quite scandalous when it was first shown.

As we were walking thru the square a wedding party emerged from the town hall. The friends and family formed two lines and the newly weds walked thru it, while everyone blue bubbles. We guessed the bubbles replaced the throwing of rice, but maybe the Dutch never threw rice, and always blew bubbles at newly weds.

The wedding party posing in front of the town hall.

We had a nice walk thru town, but we had a deadline as it was supposed to rain about 4pm. Ton wanted to make one more run thru the supermarket before heading back to François. After 45 minutes we emerged from the Jumbo supermarket with a pack full of miscellaneous food and hustled back to François just before the rain started.

The home of Jan Vermeer who painted the Girl with the Pearl Earring.

We settled in for the night, but after the rain it was a bit damp and chilly so I wimped out and turned on the heater to warm François up before we went to bed. We are planning to head out tomorrow for a proper day of exploring in South Holland.

This kissing Dutch couple is quite famous and we have both seen it in many places but we do not know the story behind it.

March 27, 2025 Delft NE

We both slept in. I was up around 10 am and Ton took a little longer to get going. It was chilly overnight, and while I thought about turning on the heat we managed to make it through the night

This sheep is from the children park next to the campground. It is a kind of giant petting zoo, full of cute animals. He looks like he is ready for a shearing.

To allow Ton a chance to sleep in peace I decided to head into town to see if I could find a charger for my Fitbit to replace the one which is probably sitting on the table next to where I packed my carry on bag at home. After walking to a couple of stores I was told it was unlikely I would find one and would have to order it on line. I wasn’t sure if that would work here, but telling Ton of my dilemma she said she thought we could order it from Amazon. After adding the campgrounds address to my account I was able to order one for delivery (hopefully) tomorrow.

This goat had mismatched horns that caused Ton some concern. He looks like he is managing fine with his asymmetrical horns.

We had our first and last meal of the day around 4 pm as jet lag is also messing with our meal schedule. To prevent us from falling to sleep too early we had a nice evening stroll taking in the children park next store, and heading to one of the main shopping areas in town.

Part of the rowing team from the local university.

Delft is a very prosperous looking town, almost stereo typically Dutch. It is full of solid looking well maintained Brick buildings, tall and good looking people, and of course canals. It is the kind of town I could envision living a good life in. The evening crowd was very young as Delft is a famous university town.

We finished the day off with a little recreational shopping in two grocery stores. After about 45 minutes of wandering aisles looking at various foods we walked out with a single bottle of salad dressing, and made our way back to François for the day.

March 26, 2025 Delft NE

We have begun our spring trip. We left during a busy time at home. Our son Dylan was moving into his new home. He and his fiancée Rebecca purchased their first home so they are very excited about now being homeowners. We helped as much as we could but the movers actually delivered their furniture the day before we left so we were not able to offer much help.

Mt. St. Helens in the foreground and Mt. Adams in the background on our flight north to Seattle.

Our flight over was uneventful, we even were upgraded to business class for the 30 minute flight from Portland to Seattle. Unfortunately our flight from Seattle to Amsterdam was in coach, but still everything worked as it should and we arrived 30 minutes early in Amsterdam. In immigration the officer asked where we would be visiting this trip and when I mentioned Spain he said he loved Spain. Just to make conversation I asked if he had any recommendations about Spain and he launched in to about a 5 minute description about how to use the subway system in Barcelona to get around town and to make sure we avoided the tourist busses. I’m sure the people behind us in the rather long line thought we were getting thoroughly interrogated about our plans!

A quick Uber to our storage and François was waiting for us. This time we appear to be rodent free which made us both very happy. The only issue is we got an airbag warning lite when we started up. A search on google shows this is a pretty common problem with Ducatos so a trip to a Fiat dealer may be in our future. Fortunately it doesn’t effect our ability to drive.

The big blob as Ton describes Mt. Rainier, she tells everyone that Mt. Hood that overlooks Portland is beautiful and Mt. Rainier that overlooks Seattle is ugly. Of course she is completely unbiased.

We had to move our initial stopping point to Delft as the Amsterdam campsite does not open until April 1. We will decide whether we move up there to take in the shopping opportunities of Amsterdam before heading south later in the week. The campground was fuller than we expected but it is one of the only ones open this week. Most campgrounds are opening next week.