May 30, 2025 Dinant BE

We had a decision to make, our plan was to visit Dinant which was about an hour from our newly formed town at Benelux Campground. Last night it was pretty noisy until about midnight. Nothing malicious or rowdy, just a lot of people moving around and having conversations. About 1 am everyone finally went to sleep and stopped using their devices and ours all woke and started sending us alerts about all of the stuff that happened while we had no bandwidth. But by the time we were moving around about 8am the network had been overwhelmed again and we had no wifi. We decided we were going to move on.

Dinant with its cool Cathedral that seems to come out of the cliff and the Citadel on top of the cliff.

It was about an hour drive on pretty good roads to Dinant and we went to investigate the campground I had found on line. We were a little concerned about availability based on our experience yesterday but when we pulled up there were only 3 other RV’s parked on a meadow. There didn’t appear to be anyone in charge but fortunately one of the RV’s had UK plates so I went over asked him what the deal was. He said park up where you like and someone will come by in the evening and collect the money.

The Leffe Brewery. Not a bad place to make beer.

Since it appeared empty we drove on down into town and to my surprise found a good place to park with no real effort. Dinant has been fought over many times and was the site of a major battle in WWI between the French and the Germans. Charles de Gaulle then a Lieutenant was wounded here. After Dinant was captured by the Germans they executed 674 of the towns inhabitants for being partisans.

The Charles de Gaulle bridge over the river Meuse.

The city is confined to two narrow banks along the Meuse river. It is a really spectacular site with the bluffs on each side of the river dominating the town. A lot of the buildings are made from the same granite that forms the cliffs above the town so the town seems to blend into the hillside.

A glass saxophone.

Dinant is also the birthplace of Adolphe Sax who was born here and lived here until the ripe old age of 6 months. Nevertheless Dinant claims him and plays up his invention of the saxophone which he did in Paris. Everywhere you look in town are statues of saxophones, and it is the host of a prestigious competition for young saxophonists every year.

A saxophone dedicated to the United States and especially New Orleans.

It is also the home of Leffe brewery which is one of the biggest brewers in Belgium. The brewery itself is impressive and looks down on the city from on top of one of the bluffs.

The Cathedral.

After walking around for an hour or so we decided we would give a Leffe a try and have a proper lunch. After a thorough examination of the restaurants of Dinant we picked one that was located along the waterfront. We sat down but could not get the waiters attention. After sitting at a dirty table for about 20 minutes we finally got someone to bring us a menu, we didn’t want to lose him so we placed our order while he was still there. He took our order but didn’t clean the dirty plates off the table. About 10 minutes later he came by and cleaned the plates but didn’t wipe the table, and more importantly did not deliver our beer. Another 15 minutes went by and we managed to snare another waiter and asked for our beers to be delivered, and to check on our order. After another 15 minutes went by without our beers, never mind any food we were pretty annoyed. Meanwhile tables that arrived well after us had their beer and their food. So we did something we have never done in our lives. We got up and walked out of a restaurant. Down the street we found a nice kebab place that served us in about 10 minutes with a smile and delivered another huge plate of fries with our kebab.

The Meuse River.

We headed back to the campground and found that the population of the campground had grown to about 6 campers. By the end of the day there are about 20 here, but it is still pretty laid back compared to yesterday.

Adolphe Sax.

Our foray into the Ardennes has been a bit of a disappointment. Everything seems a bit overwhelmed and chaotic, not at all what we expected when we decided to come here. Ton commented that we are going to have to pay more attention to the holiday schedules of countries we visit in the future.

May 29, 2025 Durbuy BE

This post is a day late because last night we were unable to access wifi. As I mentioned yesterday when we arrived at what we expected to be a quiet campground in a quiet part of Belgium we found the place teeming with people because of a 4 day weekend. Our plan was to use the campground as the base to take day trips in the area. So we took our first day trip to the cute town of Durbuy and we returned to find that what we thought was a full campground could get even fuller. My guess was that there were close to 3000 people on the campsite. As a result the local cell tower was overwhelmed and we could not get enough bandwidth to open any programs or apps on the internet. So instead we settled in and watched the commotion around us with a little bit of annoyance.

François is hidden in there somewhere.

But enough complaining. Ton had starred three towns that she wanted to visit in her list of Belgian towns so today we headed off to Durbuy. It was a short drive of about 50 kilometers from the campground, but this time Google decided to test my driving skills by sending us over the top of a mountain on 11/2 lane roads. To increase the driving test Belgians and Dutch on holiday like to ride bikes around the mountains so we had to deal with passing bicyclists safely on these narrow roads.

Bicyclists everywhere.

After about an hour we arrived in Durbuy and it is every bit as pretty as its reputation. It is also located on the L’Oisle River with cliffs on both sides that give it a rugged beauty.

This imposing building overlooked the whole town from a perch on a granite hilltop.

The town itself is not large and you can walk thru the entire town twice in about 90 minutes as we did. It is totally devoted to tourism these days but it is one of those towns that gets tourism right. They had a nice mix of upscale artists galleries and designer clothes with places to get your magnet or whatever souvenir of choice you collect. The store fronts are dignified so you do not feel like you are in a tourist trap.

A nice statue in front of a well developed plant. The shop in the building was a high end tourist store.

There were multiple restaurants to pick from again covering the gamut from Michelin to Kebab shops. We decided we only wanted a beer and a cup of hot chocolate. I added a plate of fries to the order to give us something to snack on. The beer and chocolate were normal sized but the plate of fries was immense, much more than a snack. They do like fries here and the Belgians claim they are the inventor of the French Fry, not the French.

Ton loved the name of this store. I can’t remember what they sold.

Our drive back was much quicker as google decided us to keep us on the main road running along the river all of the way which saved us about 20 minutes of driving and 100 or more gear shifts.

Ton liked this statue of a pig looking into a butchers shop. It is both cute and sad.

May 28, 2025 La-Roche-en-Ardennes BE

We had picked out La-Roche-en-Ardennes as our next stop as it is central to a region we wanted to explore. After a wet but easy drive we arrived around 1pm at a large campground. When I went to check in and asked for 2 days I was asked if I had a reservation. The campground has over 200 spots, but once again we have blundered into a 4 day weekend we did not know about. Tomorrow is Assumption Day which is a holiday here and since it falls on a Thursday they are also given a “bank” holiday on Friday. So instead of a quiet campground where can come and go from easily we are in a campground that is completely full. We were thinking of staying here Friday also, but right now we are on a waiting list!

La Roche is located on a u-shaped bend of the L’Orthe River.

Last year we had visited Bastogne which is only about 25 kilometers from here to tour the WWII battlefield. La Roche was also fought over during the Battle of the Bulge. It was overrun in the initial attack by the Germans and then re-taken about a month later by a combined American and British force. During the battle the town was pretty much leveled.

The church in town was one of the few buildings that survived the Battle of the Bulge mostly intact.

It is a nice town clearly geared towards tourism. The main street is restaurants and souvenir shops. At one time there must have been a lot of American tourists as there is even an “American Store” in town. But today we appeared to be the only Americans in town.

A German Hertzer Tank Destroyer on display in front of the Battle of Ardennes Museum.

While we were setting up and walking to town 4 Belgian Air Force F-16’s put on a little airshow at low altitude for us criss crossing the valley several times doing simulated bomb runs. We were also lucky because we got a little break in the weather for our stroll. It had rained most of the way to the campground and as soon as we got back it rained again.

The bridge over the L’Ourthe with storm clouds gathering in the background.

Once the rain began we hunkered down in François and watched the village that is the Benelux campground grow around us. Watching people move in and set up their homes is always cheap entertainment in any campground in the world.