October 29, 2025 Roses SP

Roses was the first city we visited in Spain and we have had two of our favorite meals in Europe there so we decided to spend the night in Roses before heading into France. We also wanted to visit the Dali Museum which is in the nearby town of Figueres.

The entrance of the Dali Museum.

François hit a major milestone today on our drive when his odometer hit 100,000 kilometers. We think he had about 18,000 kilometers on him when we bought him used in 2017.

François has been a good steed for us.

Dali was born in Figueres and died there. In the 1960’s he oversaw the construction of a museum dedicated to himself in a burned out theater in Figueres. It is now an extremely popular place to visit and tickets must be purchased in advance.

A large painting where the screen for the theater used to be.

Neither Ton or I knew much about Dali beyond he was a flamboyant practitioner of surrealism. Whenever his name came up I would always picture in my eye the paintings of the melting clocks that were one of his famous pieces.

There was more variety to his work than we both imagined.

As we were driving across Barcelona Ton read me a bit of his biography. The most controversial thing is that Dali was a supporter of the Fascist dictator Francisco Franco. This cost him his friendship with the other great Spanish artist of the 20th century- Picasso, and caused him to be estranged from his father for many years.

A portrait from the 1970’s.

He spent several years in the US during WWII. He moved back to Spain after the war and spent the last years in Figueres. The theater in Figueres had burned down in the Spanish Civil War so in 1960 he began the process of remaking the theater as a museum of his works.

This is one of Dali’s favorite works originally displayed in New York.

The theater was quite crowded, but the number of pieces on display and the diversity of the work was what surprised and delighted us. It was not a museum of paintings of melting clocks, but it contained works from his lifetime including periods when he worked in cubism and surrealism style as well as many three dimensional pieces that were fascinating.

One of the statues outside the museum.

The most fascinating piece to me was a portrait of Lincoln that was holographic. When you look at the painting up close you cannot tell that it is a painting of Lincoln, but when you look at it thru a camera lense, or from a distance you can see it quite clearly.

Here you cannot see Lincoln.
The same picture from a distance shows Lincolns face.

I cannot even fathom how you envision the concept and have the technical skill to pull it off. Ton and I were truly amazed by this piece of art.

Dali standing in the theater before it was restored.

We spent a couple of hours in the museum before heading to Roses to find a campground. In the spring we had a fantastic sea food meal that remains one of Tons favorite meals in Europe. So we decided to visit the restaurant again for dinner.

Not sure what this painting is about, but I like it.

We headed to town for what for us was a very late dinner, but for the Spanish was an early dinner at 7pm. We replicated the meal but added some appetizers. A couple of hours later we walked out stuffed and glad we had about a mile to walk to try to burn off some of the food. This is the reason this post is a day late.

Silliness.

October 28, 2025 Altafulla SP

It is time to start heading north so today we jumped up the coast about 400 kilometers to a place near Tarragona. The day started with a visit to Lidl to stock up on some Spanish goodies and wine for the long driving days ahead. The wine is for post driving recovery.

The beach bar at sunset.

After that we got on the AP-7 pointed François north and cruised for about 5 hours. The AP-7 used to be a toll road, but in Spain after the cost of the road is covered by tolls the road becomes a freeway. The AP-7 is now free and we appreciated saving what would have been a €20 or 25 toll in the past.

The beach at the campground.

We had picked out a campground near Tarragona that we had stayed at twice in the spring and enjoyed. To my surprise when we arrived it had already closed for the season. After some quick research I told Ton there was another campground nearby and someone had reviewed it yesterday on Park4Night so it is open. After a 15 minute drive we arrived at the very upscale entryway to Tamarit Beach Resort. By accident we had found the “Best Large Campground in Europe” for 2025 as decreed by our European campground discount card ACSI. It is huge with three restaurants, a giant pool, tennis courts, and about a mile of beachfront.

The beach bar.

But none of this impressed Ton as much as the big commercial washer and dryers in the bathroom building. So after getting settled in we spent the rest of the day washing clothes at the best large campground in Europe.

May 19, 2025 Tarragona SP

We were up early to see Kit and Stephen off on their trip home. We hope they enjoyed their taste of RV’ing in Europe. It was fun having traveling companions for part of the trip, and is a very different way to see places than just with the two of us.

A pretty point near our campground.

Since we were up early we decided to get our laundry taken care of. The campground here had nice commercial washers and dryers so it was done with quickly. One thing Ton and I have noticed on this trip is in Spain most of the campgrounds have now invested in commercial washers and dryers which is a big improvement over our first trip thru Spain nearly 7 years ago. Washing clothes is not nearly the chore it was back then.

Ships waiting to enter the port of Tarragona.

The rest of the day was spent giving François a thorough scrub down, and finding a place for all of the food we inherited from Kit and Stephen. It was mid-afternoon before we finished. The afternoon was spent lazing around a much quieter campground as all of the Spanish had returned to work. We had planned an evening walk on the beach, but about 5pm a big thunderstorm was forming inland and it hit in force about 6. By the time it ended Ton was comfortably under the covers so no romantic walk on the Mediterranean tonight.

May 18, 2025 Tarragona SP

Today was Stephen and Kits last day with their motorhome, so our primary goal was to get near Barcelona so they could clean up and pack for their trip home. We left Valencia early and headed up the coast to the campground we had stayed at early in the trip. After a 3 hour drive on a pretty quiet Autovia we arrived at a very full campground. We got two spots together and they began cleaning while Ton and I stayed out of the way.

Our last meal in Spain was a greatest hits of everyones favorite food.

After they finished packing we went out for a farewell to Spain lunch. We enjoyed another great seafood meal and a final pitcher of Sangria. We later sat around and talked until the sun went down.

April 24, 2025 Tarragona SP

We made a short jump down the coast to Tarragona. We wanted to test convoy driving and so I wanted to keep it short today, but we had the complication of driving across the second biggest city in Spain with a population of about 3 million. Much to our relief the drive went pretty well and we arrived at our campground in Tarragona around noon.

Tarragona has beautiful beaches but is not famous as a tourism draw.

After we had lunches at the campground it was time to head into Tarragona. Our quick research showed that it is known as one of the largest sea ports in Europe with a nice cathedral and some Roman ruins. We were not sure what to expect when we arrived as it is not known as a tourist destination.

The Roman Amphitheater is well preserved and has a wonderful location right on the waterfront.

We stepped off the bus right in front of the Roman Amphitheater. While not perfectly preserved like some we have visited it was well presented and occupied the most spectacular site of any we have seen. You can look down on it from many directions and get a good view of how things worked. You can walk thru it, but we decided against paying the admission fee. It was built in the 2d century but abandoned during Moorish rule. After the Moors were driven from the area it was used occasionally for different uses including as a prison. Work to preserve it only began in the 1950’s.

It is quite large as you can see by looking at the school class in the right center of the picture.

After spending time around the amphitheater we decided to head up the hill to the Cathedral. We really enjoyed the walk thru the streets. After our experience yesterday with the huge crowds in Barcelona the relatively quiet streets of Tarragona were a treat.

The streets of Tarragona were just as beautiful as Barcelona without the crowds.

It was only about 450 meters to the Cathedral, but it took us about 45 minutes to cover the distance as every few feet there were interesting buildings to photograph, or an interesting shop to poke around in. One square we saw had been built on top of the old Roman Circus and you could still see how the contours of the circus had shaped the layout of the square. We were charmed by the town.

Cool street art depicting some moment from Catalan or Tarragonan history.

The other thing that was fun about Tarragona is you would suddenly come upon an old Roman or Medieval wall that had been cleverly integrated into a more modern building. On one stretch of a Medieval wall you could see repurposed Roman stones that still had clear marks chiseled on them from the Roman times. Steve explained to me that the marks indicated which stone mason carved the rocks, almost like brands on live stock. So when it was time to be paid it was clear whose stones had been produced by who. It was a simple but effective way of accounting.

An old arch looking out on the back of the Cathedral.

We finally reached the Cathedral and it was also a pleasant surprise. While Cathedrals are always impressive in size and form after a while they begin to look repetitive. The Cathedral in Tarragona had a unique entrance which we have not seen anywhere else. The entrance way had the typical shell structure around the doors but the walls on either side of the door had sculptures carved into them. As you enter the Cathedral you pass thru this line of statues.

The statues lining the entry to the church with a women (we assume it is Mary)on a column in the center of the door.

We really enjoyed the entrance way and spent some time studying the statues and examining the copper door. It was another unexpected surprise in Tarragona.

Close up of the figures on the front of the Cathedral.

We spent another 45 minutes just enjoying a stroll thru the streets of the town. There were interesting things to see around every corner and we all enjoyed just walking at a comfortable pace and taking in the sites as they were presented to us. To me this is a high compliment to the city of Tarragona. After we were done we walked to the bus stop and our bus was waiting for us there. 25 minutes later the bus deposited us in front of the campground and we returned to our motorhomes for a nice dinner ending with a walk on the beach for sunset.

A great way to end a good day in Tarragona.

April 23, 2025 Barcelona SP

Today was Sant Jordi day which is the Valentines day for the Catalans. We decided to head back into Barcelona for one more day before setting off for other parts of Spain so once again we were up bright and early to catch the bus to the city.

On Sant Jordi day the men give the women roses, and the women give the men books.

We started the day by heading to the old Cathedral in the Gothic district. What we didn’t realize was that Sant Jordi day was a very big deal in Catalonia. Many of the major streets down town were closed and there were more people about than were down town on Saturday.

People taking a rest from their excursion into the city for Sant Jordi day

The square in front of the Cathedral was busy, and unlike Saturday the majority of the crowd was speaking Catalan rather than a foreign language. Ton and I walked around the Cathedral while Steve and Kit went in for a tour of the interior of the cathedral.

The crowd around the Cathedral was much heavier than on Saturday. Valentines day in Catalonia is a really big holiday.

Ton and I spent our time poking into the buildings that used to be residences for the clergy and rich people. We also spent some time in the building that is now the city archives for Barcelona. The courtyards of these buildings while of a similar design were each different enough to be interesting.

The governors building on the square. Note the flags at half mast to commemorate Pope Francis.

After spending some time around the cathedral and some meandering thru the narrow streets of the Gothic Quarter it was time for lunch. Our first choice was closed on Wednesday but Ton had spotted a place nearby and it turned out to be a great find. We got the last four seats available and had a wonderful meal with 4 Tapas, 3 beers, and 2 big plates of Paella. The food was wonderful and it came to around €23 per person.

After lunch we braved the crowds on Las Ramblas to get to the market.

The Market was our next stop. Las Ramblas was teeming with people, and the roads that run parallel to it were closed to handle the overflow. It was a good thing.

The main aisle in the Mercat de la Boqueria.

We spent about 30 minutes in the market and both Kit and Ton made some purchases despite the crowds. It was getting a little overwhelming for me so I was happy when we were done shopping.

No egg shortage in Spain.

Our final stop for the day was at one of Gaudis’ buildings. In honor of St. Jordi they had added Roses to the facade. It was very beautiful, but drew the biggest crowd we had run into for the day. The sidewalk in front Casa Batllo was the densest group of pedestrians I have seen since Tokyo. It was impossible to move without bumping into someone. Despite that Ton and Kit really enjoyed taking pictures while I hung out at the edge of the crowd.

The roses really added to the beauty of the Casa Batllo.

At this point we were all pretty tired from the walking and the crowds so we found a coffee shop to hang out in until it was time to head to the bus for our trip back to the camp. We learned that Sant Jordi day is a really big deal in Catalonia, and a day when the local people can take over their own city.

April 22, 2025 Mataro SP

Today we stayed around the campground while Kit and Steve got there motorhome set up. They are lucky to have gotten a brand new motorhome as their rental so it is sparkling clean. They spent some time getting their bags unpacked and set up. We then joined them on their first shopping trip to a large Spanish grocery. 2 1/2 hours later we emerged they had two carts full of food and supplies for their trip. We had a couple bottles of wine and a six pack of beer. By the time we were finished and they had packed away their food and supplies it was time for dinner. Kit treated us to a nice Thai meal while Steve and I taste tested a couple of Spanish beers. Tomorrow we are off to Barcelona again.

April 21, 2025 Mataro SP

After a leisurely morning sleeping late and having a nice breakfast we headed into Mataro. It was Easter Monday so all of the shops in town were closed. The cafes were open and doing a booming business as families were gathering on the day off. After walking thru the town we headed down to the beach which was thriving.

Ton called this the Jenga tower.

Mataro has a large breakwater protecting its harbor with a very nice walkway on top with views to Barcelona. The harbor was full of recreational boats including a couple of large yachts, and some very nice sailboats. The walkway was quite full with people enjoying the almost perfect weather.

Life jackets lined up in preparation for the beginning of tourist season.

We enjoyed our excursion into Mataro but needed to head back to the campground as our friends Kit and Stephen were due to arrive today. We went back to the campground which was buzzing with activity with many departures, but just as many arrivals. By the end of the day the 400 spaces in the campground were full.

A quiet section of beach in Mataro.

Kit and Stephen arrived and we spent the evening catching up and planning the next couple of days. We then had a nice dinner at the restaurant in the campground before settling in for the evening.

April 19, 2025 Barcelona SP

We last visited Barcelona in 2018 and really enjoyed the city. One of the reasons we like this campground is that it offers a shuttle into the center of the city. We signed up for the first bus of the day, and I was a little surprised when we got to the bus stop to find over 100 people waiting. It seems that everyone had the same thought to go into the city today. The campground had put on three busses for the 9:15 departure so everyone ended up with a comfortable seat.

Barcelona is famous for this walkway called Las Rambles. When we arrived it was pretty quiet, later in the day when we returned it was packed.

When we got to the city it was raining a bit, and it would continue to rain off and on until early in the afternoon. We arrived pretty early and while things were bustling it was a fun bustling. Barcelona is one of the top tourism destinations in Europe and has been in the news lately due to local protests against over tourism. As the day went on the crowds got to be quite heavy in nearly every part of the city we visited and uncomfortably dense in the big tourist areas. I can sympathize with the locals, but also understand the attraction of this beautiful city to visitors.

The La Boqueria Market near Las Rambles. One of Ton’s favorite markets in Europe.

Our first stop was the La Boqueria Market which is just off of Las Rambles. We have visited a lot of markets in Europe and this one is near the top of Ton’s favorites so she was excited to visit it again.

Spanish Tacos on sale in one of the food cases.

Ton was looking for a certain brand of Paprika so in addition to just enjoying the ambiance of the market we were checking out all of the stalls that sold spices. Ton really enjoys going from stall to stall looking at all of the displays. She could spend hours in these markets, but is kind to me.

Pre-mixed meals to be taken home and cooked.

We had thoughts of visiting one of the coffee shops in the market but it was packed so we passed. But after visiting several spice shops we found the brand Ton was looking for and bought three cans of paprika to take back to François. Once again La Boqueria did not disappoint us.

A meat stand complete with legs of ham hanging in the back.

Our next stop for the day was the Gothic Quarter. This is one of the oldest parts of Barcelona and is full of cool streets lined with small shops and restaurants.

One of the wider streets in the Gothic Quarter.

The Gothic Quarter also contains the Gothic Cathedral which is now the second most famous Cathedral in Barcelona. We came upon it from the back and wandered around the streets surrounding the Cathedral for a while before we arrived at the front.

Part of the back of the Cathedral.

The front was impressive, but it is no longer the Cathedral that attracts the most tourists. It has been eclipsed by Gaudi’s Sagrada Familia in another part of town. It is still a nice Cathedral and was getting a lot of visitors when we went by.

The Gothic Cathedral of Barcelona.

Having done a fair bit of walking already we jumped into a churro shop we came across. We shared a small portion which consisted of one very thick cup of hot chocolate and four 10 inch long churro’s. Another great fried dough.

Unfortunately it was closed or we would have had one of these instead of Churros.

Since Gaudi has just been proposed for saint hood in the Catholic Church we decided to head over to one of the famous buildings he designed. It was a pretty good walk from where we were, but Barcelona is one of the most walkable cities we have toured. Even with the big crowds it is pretty easy to get around and is full of charming things to see.

One of Gaudi’s most famous designs, he hated straight lines.

After visiting Gaudi it was time for lunch. Ton had picked out a Tapas place she wanted to try in the Gothic District. Today was one of more inefficient walking days as we double backed on ourselves several times to check out a place that caught our interest.

We came across this sculpture that we really liked in our back and forth in Barcelona. We ended up seeing it two more times as we criss crossed the city.

The Bodega Biarritz is a small place and we were worried about getting a table, but we arrived 15 minutes after they opened and they gave us a table four on the condition that we be prepared to move to a smaller table if they asked. Later in the meal they did ask so we got to enjoy two different views of this restaurant.

Our appetizer tray with the eight tapas we received as our main course.

The menu is interesting here. You get an appetizer plate of cheese and ham which is pretty standard, but the quality is high. But the chef picks the 8 tapas you receive. Each customer gets a slightly different set of Tapas. We received prawns, a dish of pork and mushrooms, a pigeon in rice, a beef and cheese dish, some chicken in a sauce, and a nice fish dish, a ham with potato and onion, and finally a vegetarian dish. They were all excellent and Ton loved the crispy prawns. We had a look at other trays that went by and they were indeed different than ours. It was one of the best Tapas places we have eaten in.

The Arch of Triumph. We are not sure what Triumph it is celebrating. Probably has something to do with beating the French.

We still had a couple of hours to kill so we crossed back across town to the Arch of Triumph. When we got there we found a nice bench to sit at and recharge our batteries, (both our personal ones, and the ones on our I-phones) while doing some people watching. We then crossed back one more time (with an 800 meter detour do to my poor google map skills) to pick up our bus back to the campsite for the night.

April 18, 2025 Mataro SP

Our friends Stephen and Kit will be joining us on Monday for about a month. They are flying into Barcelona and renting a RV. We selected a campground outside of Barcelona because it is large and we had good memories of being here from 2018.

As I said yesterday we booked our spot here a couple of weeks ago as it is Easter weekend. In Spain it is a four day holiday so we wanted to make sure we had a spot to meet them on Monday. The campground we are staying at has about 400 places and they are all full tonight. It is a bustling place right now.

When we arrived we settled in to a spot that is a tight fit for François. Ton asked where the laundry facilities were, and we she saw the large commercial Maytag washers and dryers the afternoon was settled. We now have a fresh load of clean clothes.

We spent the day watching the other campers settle into our spots. This is always good entertainment. On our little block of sites there are three Spanish families, one Italian with three cute girls, one Bulgarian couple, and us. We’ve been watching a Spanish girl who is about the same age as the Italian girls try to get up the nerve to join them in play. Hopefully she will.

The campground is is located about 100 yards from the Mediterranean, but unfortunately there is a four lane highway and two railway tracks between us and the water. We walked over and found an underpass to the ocean but when we got under the road and the tracks there was only a narrow dirt trail along the water. So we headed back to François to settle in for the evening.

The oceanfront trail near the campground. Not very appealing.

April 17, 2025 Girona SP

We have been meaning to visit Girona for a while. It had a reputation as a real foody town with great restaurants which was our primary motivation. So this morning we shifted the 80 kilometers from Roses. On the way out of town we passed a car wash so we swung in and knocked some of the worst of the road dirt off François.

Girona is full of beautiful narrow streets like this. It is a town to be explored on foot which we love.

We found our aire near the center of town. It is a concrete parking lot surrounded by apartments, so not romantic, but very practical as it is only 1 kilometer from the center of the city.

Some really nice street art near our aire tonight.

The old town is built on a hill in the center of the city and has been a fortress town since the Romans. It was heavily fought over during the War of Spanish Succession in the early 1700’s when the French and Spanish fought over who was going to control Catalonia. The border was eventually settled with most of Catalonia being in Spain, and a small part around Perpignon in France. The Catalans have a slightly different feel for the story, but that is for another time.

A monument to the General who defended Girona from the French during the Napoleanic wars.

Girona is located in a very strategic spot as it controls one of the best exits from Spain into France. As a result it has suffered 25 sieges and been captured 7 times. During the period between about 715 and 980 it was basically on the front line in the war between the Christian kingdoms of France, and the Islamic rulers of Moorish Spain. During that time it changed hands multiple times.

This is the area around the Arab Baths, reflecting the Moorish influence on Girona. The church is Catholic from around 980.

Girona also had a thriving Jewish community during the middle ages that occupied an area in the center of the city. This community was forced to convert to Christianity or were expelled by the Spanish kings in 1492 (a year familiar to American educated people for a different reason).

The city is full of these pedestrian stair cases. There are many of them, some quite small that would make for a fun day of exploration if you have the legs for it.

The Cathedral in the city is located on the highest point of land in the city. The Cathedral was built on a site that the Moors had converted to a Mosque. It is Spanish Gothic. It has become famous recently as it was used in the Game of Thrones. The massive steps in front of the church are quite impressive, and fans of the show will remember them as the steps that Arya Stark fell down while being chased in Season 6.

The impressive steps leading to the hilltop Cathedral in Girona.

A lot of the walls of the city are still intact and you can walk large sections of them. We scrambled up onto them a couple of times and the views were spectacular.

This church also has some impressive steps, but it is unusual in Spain for having a spire. This is not common in Spanish Churches.

The river is crossed by multiple pedestrian bridges. The most famous is a bridge built by Gustave Eiffel who is of course famous for the Eiffel tower. Most of the bridges are stone or concrete, but Eiffel’s bridge is of course made of Iron.

The Eiffel bridge in Girona.

The architecture along the river was more modern, and reminded me of the Netherlands where buildings are built right to, or even overhanging the river. The river was pretty low right now, but must at times be much higher based on the design of the homes.

The riverfront reminded me of the Netherlands.

We also went down to the town market right before it closed. Once again we did some recreational shopping. Ton loves these old markets, and finds the regional foods to be fascinating. Even though it was close to closing time most of the vendors were still open and doing good business.

These are the red shrimp we enjoyed so much yesterday.
Ton has enjoyed tomatoes since she was a child; so she was intrigued by this presentation.

After the walking and climbing (my Fitbit said we climbed the equivalent of 161 flight of stairs today) we had a long discussion about what to eat. Despite Girona’s reputation as a foody town (it is supposed to have the most Michelin stars per capita in the world) we opted for a very light lunch and two glasses of Vermouth. I think we were both still enjoying our meal from yesterday in Roses.

Figures from the Cathedral.

We did have enough room to try the local dessert called Xuixo de Crema. They are another great example of why fried dough makes the best desserts and nearly every culture has their version of it.

Our Xuixo’s (roughly pronounced Choo-chu).

Girona reminds me of why I like traveling without reservations or commitments. If not for our reservations tomorrow in Barcelona I think we would stay for another day here. Girona warrants another day of exploration, maybe more. But we were nervous about Easter weekend so we booked ourselves in the campground in Barcelona. So tomorrow we are off for Barcelona.

The Eiffel bridge.

April 16, 2025 Roses SP

It was raining heavily when we woke up in the morning so we settled in and enjoyed our coffee. After we got going in the morning we checked the weather and the rain was supposed to stop around noon. We had been planning to go to Girona today, but decided to wait for tomorrow.

After the rain stopped at noon it turned into a beautiful day.

Around noon we decided to head out to the promenade and see what was happening today in Roses. On the walk down to the town it was still cold and gray, Ton took some pictures but was not happy with the result. She then told me that this region was famous for two different Prawns called Palamos and Carabinero, and handed me a list of three places we could find them.

Our restaurant where we had a great plate of shellfish and shrimp.

After checking out all three we decided on a fourth restaurant we remembered from our last stay here. We had to wait to get a table, which is always a good sign. After about 10 minutes we were seated, but had spent the time trying to decide what to order. We were still undecided when we got to the table so we used the walk to the table to look at all of the dishes. We finally decided on a plate of shellfish and shrimp.

Our mixed plate for two.

Ton was thrilled with the selection of different shell fish and shrimp including three different shrimp and a lobster, plus a nice mixture of clams, mussels, and razor clams. The meal was fantastic, Ton was very happy.

The remnants of our meal.

When we left the restaurant the sun had come out so Ton was very happy again. This time she was stopping every few yards to take photos as the sea, sky, and surrounding sites were perfect for photos.

The sky was beautiful, and the sea was crystal clear.

The walk back was a very enjoyable for Ton, and I enjoyed people watching and watching Ton have fun.

Ice plant on the beach.

I have talked about Roses in the past. It has an interesting role historically as a port during the Spanish empire and celebrates that. But mostly it is a great beach resort town with a nice vibe that really appeals to us.

Posing with a couple of conquistadors.

It was a late start to the day, but in the end it turned into a great day at a place we really like.

April 15, 2025 Roses SP

We have been corresponding with a RV shop in Roses Spain about getting our privacy screen fixed. Yesterday they said they had a replacement screen available, but their technician said he thought he could fix the existing one. So our next stop for the day was set.

It was a cold and drizzly day but the promenade at Roses was still busy in the evening.

The drive was a little further than we thought it was going to be. When we started out looking at the distance we were going to cover on the Autopista (freeway) Ton and I guessed it was going to be a €40 toll. We were both wrong today there was no tolls. We arrived at the RV repair place and the tech looked at the problem and thru his interpreter (his wife) said it wont be elegant but it will work. He underestimated the quality of his work and while he was with us I had him fix one more small item. The repair was quoted at €700 in the Netherlands so the €108 we paid today was a great bargain.

We’ve seen some interesting rigs in Europe.

We were at the campground by 3:30 just in time for it to rain. Ton cooked a nice dinner, and then declared her day over. I took a short evening walk and then came back to relax in François.

November 7, 2023 Roses SP

We were up bright and early as we had a 9:30 appointment at the repair place. It was an easy drive and we arrived to find a real polyglot operation. Initially they greeted us in French based on our plates, when I asked for English the person immediately switched to flawless English. She then got on the radio to have the technician come to the office and spoke what I thought was German to him, but I thought I had misheard and it was probably Catalan, later I learned it was German. The tech and I went out to the car to look at the problem and he was speaking in French until I asked for English, and he said oh good and also switched to flawless English. After a few minutes discussion in English Ton said to me in Thai that she thought he was German based on his accent. It turns out she has a good ear as he was indeed a German who had settled in the area. All of this talk of languages is because the repair itself was quick and easy and took all of 10 minutes. We now have a new latch and light for the refrigerator that seem to be working, as well as an admonishment to put less stuff on the refrigerator door shelves.

The welcome sign to Roses.

On the way to the repair shop, we saw a grocery store advertising the cheapest fuel we have seen in about 3 years. So we stopped and filled François up and probably saved about €20 over what our average fill has been lately. The gas station was attached to a large supermarket, so Ton ran in there for a few minutes while I was filling François. Well a few minutes turned into 45 minutes as we had discovered the largest Catalan owned grocery chain, and it was full of cool and cheap Catalan and Spanish food.

Downtown Roses on our way to lunch.

Ton had spotted a seafood restaurant yesterday that she wanted to try if it was open. Yesterday it was closed, but we hoped that was because it was Monday. Unlike the restaurants that are closed for the season, this one still had tables outside, and the inside tables were set with plates so we were optimistic. She even knew what she was going to order. Unfortunately, it wasn’t open. So we tried a Moroccan restaurant just up the street. We enjoyed the food, and the tea, so while disappointed that we didn’t get the seafood we wanted we still had a nice meal.

The Roses Express, using a Case or John Deere tractor for the engine.

Every town in Europe now seems to have a little train that you can take to see the sites. We have taken a couple of them over the years. The one in Roses was exceptional as the “Engine” was a big Case or John Deere tractor instead of a little modified truck like most. We had stopped and looked at it yesterday, but there was no one there. Today when we walked by there was someone manning the booth. We were intrigued so we signed up for the one hour Cap De Creus tour.

The harbor in Roses with the Cap de Creus in the background.

The tour was mostly thru narrow streets full of vacation homes, and once again I was impressed as the driver navigated this farm tractor pulling two trailers down streets I would have cringed to take François down. The tour was narrated in French, German, and English, but not Spanish or Catalan. When we signed up for the tour they asked where we were from, so I suspect there were no Spanish on the ride today.

Looking back towards Roses from the Cap de Course.

We climbed up quite a hill, and then dropped back down towards a less built up area which was part of a Spanish national park. For a short part of the trip we were on dirt roads, which is why they are using the tractor to pull the “train”.

Looking inland from the Cap.

On the tour they mentioned that the full time population of Roses is 20,000, but that during the peak of the summer when all of the hotels and vacation homes are full an additional 120,000 people are in the town! We both agreed that we were glad we were here when the population was closer to 20,000.

A loan sailboat anchored off of the promenade. All but one of the hotels in the background are closed for the season.

Tomorrow we are heading north as we only have 6 days until our flight home. We are planning to cover about 300 kilometers a day, which should put us into Amsterdam with a couple of days to spare. So today was our last day of traveling without a plan, unfortunately.

Beach soccer with the Cap in the background.

November 6, 2023 Roses SP

As much as we liked Perpignan we had to leave today as the campground we were staying at is closing for the season. We looked at our options and everywhere North and East of us had rain. I pointed out to Ton that we were only about 30 minutes from the Spanish border. One of our favorite memories in Spain was a meal we had in Roses, so that’s how we ended up here in the town aire. I told Ton that we should leave early as the recent reviews kept referring to it being sold out. We arrived about 9:30 in the morning after a quick drive down the freeway and claimed a good spot. I went to get rid of some trash around 5pm and they had just sold the 70th and last spot for the night to a RV from Iceland.

This Gnome thing is in front of a now defunct amusement park called WOK and Park next to where we are staying. It looks like it could be a good setting for a horror movie.

Our memory of Roses was of a very lively resort town where we had our first and most memorable Spanish meal about 6 years ago. It was a three course meal with both an aperitif and a glass of wine for €13. We were hoping we would recognize the restaurant and see if we could replicate the meal.

The not very bustling seaside resort of Roses.

This time instead of a bustling seaside resort with lots of shops and restaurants, we found a bit of a ghost town. Out of season 90% of the hotels and restaurants shut down. We had the beautiful seaside promenade to ourselves most of the way. We found our favorite restaurant but unfortunately it was also closed for the season.

Ton likes the way they trim the trees in France and Spain.

But we did find a restaurant where we could get a three course meal for €17, but this time the wine was extra. But, the meal was wonderful, and Ton was thrilled with her first course which was a giant plate of mussels, and her second course which was a very meaty fish called a monk fish. So Roses continues to meet our expectations for good meals.

Still a beautiful place if a little cold and blustery.

We are going to spend another night here in Roses as we have to get a little problem fixed on François before beginning our trek north. A part of the latch on the door to our refrigerator has cracked. The door closes fine, but the door ajar alarm keeps going off because some circuit is not being closed. It is quite annoying to be woken up every few minutes by an alarm, sometimes it goes off continuously and sometimes it will be quiet for a few hours and then suddenly go off for no apparent reason. So tomorrow we are off to try to get it fixed.

October 31, 2018 Mataro SP

The problem with traveling during shoulder season is the weather is unpredictable.  It has been a wet October in Spain, and it culminated with today.  When we checked the weather last night they predicted a very large storm with possible flash floods, high winds and thunderstorms.  It was supposed to last all day.  Our original thoughts were to begin moving north towards France by bounding up the coast to Roses.  But when we checked the weather there it was actually supposed to be worst than Mataros.  Eventually we decided to hunker down for the day.

This picture is recycled as the weather did not allow us to get anything nice today.

Unfortunately the weatherman got it right and it was spectacularly bad weather all day.  We were a little surprised that so many people were choosing to leave when the weather was so bad, and we were beginning to think we were wimps for not carrying on with our plans.  It turns out we did not know that today was the last day the campground was open this year and everyone has to be out by tomorrow morning.

We were going a little stir crazy so we decided to see if the campground had anything planned for the evening, and they did, a wine tasting.  We signed up and it became the highlight of our day.  The tasting was by a local winery in Mataro, and there were only 6 people at the tasting, two English couples and us.  Laura the representative from the winery had brought 4 wines to taste.  She did a great job of explaining the characteristics of the wine from Mataro, and the wines were quite good.  During the tasting we struck up a conversation with one of the English couples , and at the end of the tasting Laura surprised us by putting the 4 bottles in the center of the table and told us we were free to finish them, not knowing this we had also purchased a wine from them, so the 4 of us had the duty of finishing off 5 bottles of wine.  Lyndsey and her husband  John were kind enough to invite us over for supper so we could have some food with the wine.  It turned into a fun night, and it was nearly 1am when we made it to bed having done our duty and finished off all of the wine.  Thanks for the exceptional hospitality Lyndsey and John.

October 30, 2018 Barcelona SP

Today we planned a second trip into Barcelona.  The primary purpose was to visit the interior of the Sagarda Familia, much like the Alhambra visitors are limited per day, and you have to register in advance to get a time to visit.  When we returned to the campground on Sunday we signed up for the next available spot and it turned out to be at 4:45 PM today.

Today was by far the nicest day of our visit to Barcelona with clear blue skies, though it was still on the chilly side.  We took the first bus into town as we wanted to spend some time in the markets at Barcelona.  They have two markets and we (particularly Ton) really enjoy poking around in the markets to look at the different food products.  We also used the time to look around the old town.  We pretty much just wandered around looking at churches, stores, and people.  Barcelona is now the third or fourth most visited city in Europe, depending on who is counting, so there is quite a lot to see. The shopping is diverse and interesting.

The entrance to the Market.
A fruit and vegetable display complete with jack o lanterns, here in Spain they attach tape to the exterior of the pumpkin to make the face.

We have become addicted to Pinxos which is Basque Tapas, and had them again at lunch.  In the past we had been eating mostly seafood, so today we went more towards meets and sausages.  They were also delicious, Ton also had her new favorite drink at lunch, a good Spanish Vermouth.

Finally we headed over to the Sagarda for our tour.  They are really serious about the time on your ticket, we got in line at 4:30, and when we got to the door they turned us around and told us to come back in 15 minutes. 

While we were waiting to get in Ton took this shot depicting Judas kissing Jesus before betraying him.  The numbers on the left add up to 33 in all directions, Jesus age at his death.

We have seen a lot of cathedrals in our last two trips.  Ron thought the exterior of the Sagarda was a little overwrought for his tastes, and preferred the more traditional gothic cathedrals.  Ton thinks you cannot compare the Sagarda with a traditional cathedral.  However, Ron was wowed with the interior of the Sagarda.  While the exterior is extremely busy, the interior is magically elegant, and the use of light is masterful.  His vision of the columns of the cathedral as a forest of trees is stunning.  The soaring ceilings are really something, and seem much grander than the large gothic cathedrals.  Ton was impressed with the stained glass windows, and the way the colors effected the mood of the interior.  The Sagarda is an extremely moving place, and we think Gaudi’s genius came thru on the interior, and his madness comes thru on the exterior.

The columns divide at the top to look like canopies of trees and also to support the roof.
One of the few statues inside the cathedral this one is of Mary.

October 29, 2018 Mataro SP

Well we are starting to run into some bad weather.  We woke up to temperatures in the low 40’s scattered showers and heavy wind.  All together a miserable day.  We hung around François for the morning, finally getting cabin fever we decided to head into town to the mall, because that’s what you do when the weather sucks.

Our thought was to catch a movie, but they do not appear to have matinees in Spain, or at least in Mataro.  So we poked around the mall for a couple of hours, and then headed to the campground.  We attended a class on how to make Sangria, which was fun, and we got a pitcher of Sangria to taste at the end.  Some days are better than others.

Another Gaudi facade from yesterday.

October 28, 2018 Barcelona SP

While we are staying in Mataro, the purpose of the visit is to see Barcelona.  The campground we are staying at is about 40 minutes outside of Barcelona, but offers free shuttles into the city which is nice.  It is one of the huge campgrounds in Spain that cater to European snowbirds, there are over 300 spots here, with a bar, restaurant, pool, beach club, and tourist activities.  It is quite a place.

The weather was a little better than yesterday but cold.  The place we visited two days ago had snow overnight, and it was still raining when we set off.  We intended today to be a bit of a reconnaissance of Barcelona so we did not have any firm plans but just wanted to get a feel for the city.  

When we got there it was raining pretty hard so we decided to duck into a coffee shop to plan the day.  After nursing our coffee and chocolate as long as possible we decided to head towards the medieval cathedral.  Barcelona has two cathedrals, one is world famous, and the other is the medieval one.  We will talk about the famous one later.

On our way to the cathedral we bumped into a “free” walking tour of Barcelona.  We had done these “free” tours in Chile and enjoyed them so we joined it.  It was a good decision as it gave us some good background on Catalonia, Barcelona, and the history of Wilfred the Hairy which is Ron’s favorite medieval name, (Richard the Lionhearted, Charles the Brave, and Wilfred the Hairy were all contemporaries more or less, apparently Wilfred was exceptionally hairy).

The door of the Gothic Cathedral in Barcelona.
Wilfred the Hairy depicted slaying a dragon (that looks suspiciously like a giant parrot) on the side of the cathedral.

We stopped in a little cafe on the tour that was run entirely by Americans, but they had a good vermouth that Ton and I enjoyed.  After the tour was over they were offering a non-free Gaudi and modernisme tour.  We decided to join that tour also.

The modernisme movement flourished in Barcelona in the early 1900’s and is led by a guy named Gaudi.  We looked at several interesting versions of modernisme buildings ending with a tour of the La Sagarda Familia.  It is an extremely interesting building.  Gaudi was a Catalan who is considered the leader of the modernisme movement.  The university he received his architecture degree from said they were giving a degree to either a genius or a madman.  

The facade of a building Gaudi re-modelled in the early 1900’s.
Another Gaudi building from the early 1900’s he hated straight lines and symetry as he believed they were not natural.

The Sagarda was commissioned by the city during the 1880’s and Gaudi took over the building a year after it was started.  In the end he did descend into madness, and it became his obsession.  It is still under construction 140 years later, and looks like it has another 20 or 30 years to go, though the official completion date is supposed to be in 8 years.  One interesting fact is that for the first 130 years it was under construction it did not have a building permit.  They recently resolved that and the commission that owns it paid a €30 million fine.  We will tour the interior on Tuesday so more to come on Gaudi and the Sagarda.

The door of the Sagarda, contrast it with the Gothic Cathedral above.  All of the figures around the door were plaster casts of real people in Barcelona.