April 28, 2025 Madrid SP

Well . . . an interesting day. We had a plan for the day in Madrid. Ton and I were going to explore the city on foot, while Kit and Stephen were going to take a tour of the Palace. But sometimes the best plans don’t happen.

The Plaza Mayor in Madrid.

We walked to the Metro station and rode into the center of the city, the trip was smooth. We emerged at the Opera and around the corner was the palace with a giant statue. We agreed to meet at 4pm at the giant statue.

Not the giant statue, but a giant statue.

Since we had some time until Kit and Stephens tour we decided to go together to the market. On the way to the market we found the meeting point for Kit and Stephens tour.

One of the symbols of Madrid.

We spent about 30 minutes in the market. It was a nice market but a bit expensive for our tastes. In truth it is no longer a market, but a restaurant hall. The food looked good but it was clearly intended primarily for consumption by tourists, so Ton and I decided to eat later.

Stephen and Kit stayed with us while we walked to the Plaza Mayor, and another plaza where the Madrid government building was located. Both squares were nice and there were plenty of tourists like us enjoying the beautiful unseasonably warm day.

The Plaza Mayor.

At this point Kit and Stephen headed off to find some lunch before their tour, and Ton and I continued on our walk of the city. Ton wanted to go to the writers quarter. In the writers quarter we found a block on a square with a row of old restaurants offering different kinds of regional Spanish foods. The only down side was the square was undergoing a major rebuild, but we were intrigued with the food. We walked the row of restaurants two times and settled on one that offered a nice 3 course Menu of the Day.

The writers block with a quote from Cervantes in the road.

We were seated and had picked our courses when the waitress told us they didn’t serve the Menu of the Day until 1pm at the time it was 12:25. Ton and I talked it over and we told the waitress that we would return at 1pm. On our way out we used the restroom, and as we were about to walk out of the restaurant the power went out with a pop that startled everyone.

Once everyone got over the shock there was some giggling and we told the staff we would be back at 1pm. When we stepped onto the street we could see the power was out everywhere on the block and I told Ton someone must have cut a power line in the construction area.

We walked around the neighborhood for a while and watched as the wait staff and cooks from restaurants, clerks from stores, and the construction workers all stood around and tried to figure out was going on. I noticed that our access to wifi had stopped so one of our key tools for getting around was not working. By 1pm the power was still out in the writers quarter so we decided to expand our search for food.

The park near the Prado Museum.

I noticed that we were only a quarter mile or so from the Prado Museum which is one of the biggest attractions in Spain so I suggested we go there to look for food. I also figured that it would be far enough away from the construction to be out of the black out zone.

As we walked I noticed that all of the traffic lights were out. When we got to the Prado we saw that they were closing the museum so the black out was more widespread than we thought. At this point we figured that it was more than a local problem. We saw a cafe serving drinks and sandwiches, but when we sat down the waiter told us the food they had left was chips and we would have to pay with cash. So we had a very light lunch. The whole time we were not able to access our phones and I was a little frustrated, but suddenly I received a text from Stephen saying their tour was cancelled. But I was unable to reply.

We decided after our “lunch” to head towards the palace figuring that Kit and Stephen would be there. As we walked we noticed that more and more police were appearing on the streets. Some in plain clothes with just their high visibility jackets. Several of the main intersections were having traffic directed by a mix of different police forces in Spain. We also saw people standing on the streets holding old fashioned portable radios to get news. It was a good day for analog.

The beginning of the walk home.

As we walked towards meet up point we received two more texts from Kit and Stephen but were not able to respond. But just as we saw the big statue we saw Kit and Stephen sitting at a cafe next to it so we were back together. This cafe had some cold Tapas available so we had a quick meal while we figured next steps.

The problem was we could not access the internet to see the news. We heard conversations that the power was out in Spain, Portugal, and parts of France, but no one was sure why.

While we were eating I began to play with the phone, I could still get the map of Madrid on it, and was even able to scroll in and out to get closer views. After a while I was able to locate the campground, and by scrolling in and out discovered that one of the main avenues leaving downtown went straight to the campground. Since the Metro was closed walking might be our option.

I told everyone that I thought we could walk back to the campground as a last resort. I also thought once we got down the avenue we might be able to figure out what bus line to get on to get to the campground. That became the plan.

We passed the bull ring on Calle Alicante.

So we set off looking for Calle Alicante which fortunately for me started at a big monument. It turns out we were about 8 miles from the campground on foot. As we walked we saw the metro stops we had passed in the morning taped off to prevent entry.

Mostly I was impressed with the attitude of the people. On the entire walk I didn’t see anyone behaving badly. The police were calm and professional, those that weren’t busy directing traffic were helping people with directions or information. Twice on the trip when I was checking my bearings people asked me if I needed any help.

Closed Metro Station.

Our idea of taking a bus was quickly forgotten when we saw the first bus stops on the road. There were hundreds of people waiting for busses, and the busses that went by were packed like sardine cans. We kept walking down the Calle Alicante for 2 hours until I noticed that the last couple of busses were only crowded, not packed, and the crowds at the bus stop were much smaller.

We headed over to the next bus stop and a nice young lady told us we wanted bus 77 and even told me which stop to get off at. She was very helpful. We squeezed on to the bus and covered the next mile and a half in 10 minutes. The young lady even went out of her way to make sure we got off at the right station.

We arrived at the campground around 7pm after a big adventure. When I checked my fitbit I saw that we had covered over 10.4 miles today, some of it as tourists and most of it as foot mobile commuters. Everyone was tired but we enjoyed sitting around until dark, and just before sunset the street lights around the campground came on.

October 24, 2023 Piana FR

Ton and I have had the privilege of driving some beautiful highways in our time traveling, the Alaska Highway, Utah Highway 12, the Pacific Coast Highway, the Amalfi Coast, and today we added another beautiful and memorable highway to the list, the D81 between Sagone and Osage on Corsica.

Some of the mountain scenery at the beginning of the drive.

Our thought was to move up to Calvi today. It is the next major town north of us and somewhere we planned to spend a day during our visit to Corsica. I had looked at a map and I remember telling Ton that it was not going to be a quick trip as the road looked very curvy, and mountainous. I punched Calvi into Greta our navigator, and she first reported that it was 47 kilometers north of us by air, she then calculated the route and said it was 118 kilometers of road. That is a lot of curves.

The road we followed to get to this point is in the center of the picture. The scenery is incredible, and the road is a roller coaster.

I checked the weather and it was not good. It was supposed to rain most of the day, so in addition to the mountains and curves we were going to have wet roads. We had a short debate about whether to stay put for the day, but while the campground was nice the only entertainment around it was a very nice grocery store next door, so we decided to move on.

This would not be our only goat encounter of the drive.

Just as we were pulling out of the parking lot of the supermarket there were a couple of thunderclaps and the moderate rain we had been experiencing turned into a full on downpour. Ton asked if we should abort the drive, but I decided to push on.

This view is incredible in the rain. I can’t imagine what it is like on a sunny day.

For the first 45 minutes of the drive the windshield wipers were on high to handle the volume of rain. We had to keep our eyes out for water running across the road and deep puddles. Fortunately the traffic was pretty light, and we did not realize it at the time but this was the wide and straight part of the drive.

Approaching a small town on the route. There was a decent sized town every 10 kilometers or so.

After about 45 minutes the rain let up and then eventually stopped just as we were reaching the area around the town of Piana. The timing it turns out couldn’t have been better as we were reaching the Calanques de Piana. We passed thru Piana which was the largest town we had seen so far on the trip. There were several substantial hotels in the town and the views from the town were great including some red rocks in the distance.

Some of the Calanques with the road carved into the side of them

A couple of kilometers outside of the town we came to a sign in French which said approximately, the road is very narrow, there will be places to pull out so when you run into another car, work it out. Or words to that effect. We were entering the Calanques de Piana.

I’m in the pull out on the right as this car went by.

But what a magnificent stretch of road. The road is carved thru these amazing red rocks that reminded me a bit of Bryce Canyon National Park in Utah. There were hair pin turns to negotiate while you were peering around the corner to see if anyone else was coming, and simultaneously gawking at another beautiful vista.

This guy gave way to allow me to squeeze around the corner, while giving me a hand signal telling me no one was coming.

Once going around one of the corners I ran into a tour bus coming the other way. We both stopped and checked our mirrors and I was planning to back up about 50 yards to a pullout, but before I could get into reverse he gave me a hand signal to wait and he threw the bus in reverse and backed into a small pull out part way to give me enough room to squeeze thru. Over the 10 kilometers or so of the narrow part of the road I came across 5 vehicles, 3 times the other person backed up to make enough room, and twice I did. Often you would see another car coming and we would park in a pull out and wait for them to go by. As the sign said use the pull outs and work it out amongst yourselves.

Not only did you have to deal with cars on the narrow road, but four legged traffic.

Not only do you have the red rocks but you can see the ocean from the road. This stretch of road is absolutely one of the most beautiful we have ever seen. When we set out in the morning we had no idea we were going to have one of the most memorable drives of our life. Today is the reason why we enjoy traveling in our little RV’s. We would have never experienced the D81 and the Calanques de Piana.

Even the goats used the pullouts to allow traffic to flow.

We left the campground at 9:45 and arrived at our campground in Calvi at about 1:15, so our 118 kilometer drive took three and half hours for an average speed of 33 kph or 20 miles per hour. It was not a fast trip but we enjoyed it immensely. Right as we got settled into the campground the sky opened up again and we spent the rest of the day watching the rain pour down with high winds and the occasional thunderclap. It was a memorable day.

September 20, 2023 Villanova IT

Our ferry loading experiences in Greece have always been interesting, and today was another example of that, as I was almost arrested for human trafficking. When I left you yesterday we had just returned to François after having our last Greek dinner and were waiting for the ferry to arrive.

We had struck up a conversation with our British neighbors, and the wives decided they would go thru the pedestrian entrance together and I would follow the neighbor thru the security check to get into the port. They were adamant that the vehicles could only have the driver in them. So our plan was to drive thru security and then go find the wives on the inside of the port. So about 1030 Ton and our neighbor headed into the terminal, and we took the motorhomes over to the security gate for the port.

The checks were the normal passport, ticket, and random opening of doors by the Greek Coastguard, and police. Initially my inspector asked for my passport but did not look at it, did a cursory shine of the back of François and walked away. In front my British partner was opening the door to his storage for the inspector. I think because we were waiting the inspector came back to me and asked me to do the same.

I got out of François to open the storage hatch for the inspector, when I got to the back I noticed that the bike rack was down, but I didn’t think anything of it, thinking it might have slipped down. I then opened the hatch and there was a person in there! He was a young guy of about 20 curled up on top of our electrical cords and chairs. The inspector yelled for help and in a few seconds there were five police and coastguardsmen at the back of François. They left the guy in there for a few minutes while they had a rather calm discussion in Greek about the situation. They also questioned me about what I knew about him. I was stunned. I told them we had been with the RV all day except about 40 minutes when we went to dinner, and when we left it was locked. But he must have accessed it while we were gone.

At that point I made the connection to the bike rack being down, it was quite hot, so we decided to leave the roof vents open on François so it wouldn’t heat up too much when we went to dinner. I explained that to the police, and that he must have used the bike rack to climb up on François and enter thru the air vent on the roof. He was skinny enough to do it. The storage where he was hiding can also be accessed from inside the RV by lifting the bed, so once he was inside he climbed down in there and lay quietly while we were waiting to board the ferry.

The vent he entered thru.

After some more discussion in Greek, they told the guy to get out of François, and he headed off around a corner unescorted. They had some more discussion in Greek, and now gave François a very thorough inspection. When they didn’t find anything else, they gave me a good natured warning about security saying that they could make me stay and appear in court to confirm that I did not know the person they found in the vehicle but they were not going to do that. All in all I was detained about 15 minutes.

When I told Ton about the incident she was startled of course, particularly as the guy had been in François with us for about 3 hours while we waited for the ferry. Before we boarded we did a thorough check of our stuff, and I looked at all of the locks and sky lights, he didn’t take anything or touch anything for that matter, and he didn’t do any damage to François.

Our cute Sosta in Italy.

The rest of the trip went as planned and the boarding and unloading process was slow but under control. We are now parked up at a nice Sosta in Italy with a wild travel story to tell in the future.

June 21, 2021 Burns OR

Today was a another relatively long bound towards home. The most direct route from Las Vegas to Portland is thru the Great Basin, and it may be the least populated part of the lower 48 states. Today we wanted a commercial campground because we want to give Scout a good scrubbing and dump and clean the tanks. The options were Winnemuca Nevada which was only about 100 miles from Austin, or drive another 200 miles past Winnemuca to Burns. We always opt for Burns.

The Mormon Cricket.

While traversing the appropriately named Big Smokey Valley in Nevada we came across a natural phenomenon we have never seen. We began to notice that there were a lot of bugs on the road. As we drove the number of bugs increased and we encountered tens of thousands of these things on the road over the next 60 miles or so. As we were driving I had Ton Google “lots of bugs on the road in Nevada”. It turns out that periodically in the west there is an infestation of Mormon Crickets. During periods of drought they hatch in the millions. They can cause havoc if they get into an agricultural area as they will eat everything. The reason we were seeing so many on the roads is they are also Cannibalistic, so as they are crossing roads when one is squished others will stop to feed on the dead cricket, they are then squished by another car, and the cycle continues. We passed one section of the road where there were so many dead crickets that it looked like brown tire tracks. In fact the article we read said they can cause traffic hazards because so many get killed that they cause the road to become slick.

There is not a lot of human activity in the Big Smokey Valley, just a few ranches scattered over 75 miles of road, but we always seem to have something interesting happen here. This time it was crickets and last time we were buzzed by a F-35 fighter jet twice.

All of the spots are Mormon Crickets. I wanted to get out to take a better picture but Ton wouldn’t let me because it was gross.

When we stopped at Winnemuca for gas, all of the surfaces behind the tires were covered with chunks of hundreds of cricket carcasses. Our first stop before checking in at the RV park was a carwash to de-cricket the exterior of Scout.

May 28, 2021 Bee Cave TX

Today was the shortest drive of the trip, and very nearly a disaster. On the 48 mile trip to our friends Pae and Supachai we were following a pick up truck down a two lane road with a center third lane to make left turns, a common set up on busy two lane roads in Texas. The truck was traveling at about 45 mph on a road with a 70 mph speed limit and had his emergency flashers on because of the slow speed. We ended up following him for about 5 miles, and were the first vehicle behind him, immediately behind us was a semi-truck, and behind the semi were 8 or 10 cars.

Coming to an intersection the pick up truck pulled into the center lane which is used for left turns. Just as I went to pass him on the right, he swung in front of me from the center lane and turned right. I initiated a full brake panic stop and swerved to the right and just missed him. The semi-truck behind us also went into full panic stop and swerved left to miss us, but caught the left corner of our bumper, and scrapped the paint on the back of the house on Scout.

We pulled Scout over to the shoulder and the truck driver pulled his rig in behind us to look at the damage. The guy who caused the accident slowed down for a few seconds after he heard the semi hit us, but decided to not stop. The only significant damage was to our aluminum bumper that we mount two storage bumpers on. It had a hole punched in it from one of the lugs from the wheel of the truck. Unfortunately it is a specialized bumper and expensive to replace.

Jaime the truck driver then told me that he needed to call the police because as a commercial vehicle he needed a police report for the accident and could not just exchange insurance information. We waited on the side of the road for about 20 minutes and a sheriff showed up. He took a quick look at things, and then told us that because it was a commercial vehicle accident the investigation had to be done by a State Trooper. He called the Texas State Police and asked for a trooper who was dispatched from San Angelo. The sheriff explained that San Angelo was about 45 minutes away, apologized and left Jaime and I there to wait on our own.

It turns out Jaime is a really nice guy, and we had a wide ranging conversation from the stupidity of the guy who had us talking to each other on the side of the road in Texas, to what it was like to drive a semi-truck, to climate change. He did say one thing that got my attention, he had just dropped his load and his trailer was empty, he said if he had been full he probably would have hit us square on, because he would not have been able to slow down, or maneuver fast enough under load to almost miss us.

The Texas State Trooper eventually arrived, took our statements, assessed that neither of us were at fault for the accident, but that the pick up truck was the cause. He provided us with the accident report and after an hours delay were on our way.

The goatherd at the Jester King brewery near Austin.

We spent the rest of the day with our friends Pae and Supachai. They took us to a nice barbeque restaurant for lunch. After lunch we went to a local brewery which is on a working farm. As part of the farm the brewery keeps a herd of about 60 goats, we got a treat as the goats were out of their pen and working in a field. I met my first goatherd ever, and he told us about the hierarchy among the goats, the alpha is a female, and even the bigger male goats do not mess with her.

A slight correction to yesterdays post about the wildflowers. There are two flowers that look similar the Indian Blanket I talked about yesterday and this flower called a Mexican Hat. Both are really beautiful.

We finished the day by cooking some steaks on the back porch of Pae and Supachai’s house during a big thunderstorm. It was a nice relaxing way to end an unexpected stressful day.

Travel Highlights

We travel to explore different places and cultures, these blog posts are things that delighted. Sometimes we expect to be delighted and sometimes we are delighted unexpectedly.

May 27, 2019 Bamberg GE

When you are traveling from campground to parking lot to campground you start to appreciate the little things.  This campground has absolutely the best showers

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April 15, 2018 Albi FR

The day started out with a visit to the cheese shop under the supervision of Patrick the campsite owner.  He also had a French couple

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June 7, 2015 Union OR

Today we spent the day at the Eastern Oregon Livestock Show.  It is a combination of a 4H fair, horse racing, and Rodeo.  I have

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April 24, 2015 Sequoia NP

We had planned to cross over the central valley to Sequoia National Park.  The night before Ton mentioned the Carrizo Plain National Monument which is

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August 13, 2014 Cody WY

Today was spent at the Wild Bill Western Museum.  This museum is a revelation and is actually five museums in one.  There is of course

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The Alaska Highway

We have traveled the Alaska Highway twice. The first trip was in our ERA class B in 2012, and confirmed the idea of traveling farther afield that led to our moving on to Scout our Tiger RV unfortunately we were not blogging at the time.

Our ERA parked near Valdez AK in 2012.

The second trip was in 2017 in Scout and the blog entries are below. Anyone who is interested in this trip I would highly recommend it. The main Alaska Highway is paved the entire way and the road quality is generally good. There are towns and services spaced along the way so you need no modifications or extra fuel to make the trip as long as you follow the 1/2 rule. If your tank is at 1/2 you fill up at the next gas station you see.

In Alaska the main roads are also paved and generally good quality. Any class B or C RV can handle the main roads on the trip, and we saw plenty of class A and large travel trailers on the highway.

The Cassier Highway is a chip seal surface and two lanes wide. No problem for most RV’s

Some of the side trips involve gravel roads, but again in general they are well maintained and 2wd will suffice. If the conditions have deteriorated the highway departments are good posting road conditions. The two roads to the Arctic Ocean involve hundreds of miles of gravel, but we saw all kinds of vehicles on these roads including cars, semi-trucks and 2wd pickups, though I think some discretion is required.

The Dempster Highway is approximately 400 km’s of gravel to the Arctic.

The sights on this trip are fantastic and make the effort more than worth it. There is everything from majestic mountains, to Fjords, to Tundra. The wildlife is plentiful and I can almost guarantee you will see interesting animals frequently.

We cannot recommend this trip enough.

 

August 28, 2017 Seward AK

Well it was another gray day.  The forecast was clouds and occasional showers, and they were right.  Because of the weather forecast we decided to

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Road Adventures

Part of traveling is dealing with unexpected things. Over the years we have had our share of things go wrong, but more often than not, someone has come along to help. Below is a list of the posts we call road adventures.