May 14, 2026 Ceske Budojovice CZ

For the first time on this trip we are having to plan on dealing with wet weather. Today wasn’t supposed to rain, but we ended up with some spotty rain. On top of being wet the temperatures have fallen into the 50’s again during the day, and into the high 30’s at night.

The city hall in Ceske Budojovic is pretty and has a nice glockenspiel.

We started the day by heading into the city to check out the town square. It was another nice town square with a good representation of Baroque and Renaissance buildings that are well preserved.

The fountain was a little more “normal” than the ones in Brno.

We gave the square a look from all 4 quarters, and since this is not a town focused on tourism did some real shopping in the stores lining the square. Instead of the normal tourism stores and restaurants the stores here were clothes and shoe stores. Ton has been casually looking for a jacket and a pair of shoes to take home. She didn’t find anything, but enjoyed looking.

How do you tell if a square is for locals or tourists? If the town allows parking in the square it means that the square is being used mostly by the locals for shopping. Ton was impressed that the tulips were still blooming.

While she was shopping I popped into a bank and got a couple thousand Czech Crowns, just in case we need to pay for something in cash. Most of central Europe has not joined the Euro and having to deal with Crowns, Forints, and Zloty’s every time you change countries is a pain.

The Black Tower. Most Czech cities have preserved the watchtower that was part of the city walls.

But we didn’t come to Ceske Budojovic to shop or because of its beautiful town center. We came to visit Budvar Brewery which produces a beer called Budvar Budweiser and they claim they are the true Budweiser, but a little American company called Anheuser-Busch disputes that.

Enjoying our Budvar Budweiser.

Like all of these kind of things it is complicated. Ceske Budojovic has been a beer brewing town since the 1200’s, and brewing has been a mainstay of the economy here since then. The town always had a mix of Czech and German inhabitants, the Germans called the town Budweis.

Standing in the visitors center.

In 1795 a group of German residents formed a brewery called Budweiser Burgerbrau and were successful. In a trip to Europe in the mid 1800’s Augie Busch discovered it and decided to brew a beer of a similar style in St. Louis calling it Budweiser. That business worked out well for him as all of us Americans know.

A cool wood carving representing the process of brewing beer.

In 1897 a group of Czechs got together and formed a competitor to Budweiser Burgerbrau called Budweiser Budvar Brewery. Since then there has been a great deal of jousting in courts around the world, and in the court of public opinion over the use of the name Budweiser. To make things even more fun Anheuser-Busch acquired the former Budweiser Burgerbrau brewery in 2012 and produces a beer there called Samson. Budweiser Budvar cannot use that name in North and South America and is marketed as Czechvar in the Americas. But in Europe you will see both the American Budweiser and the Czech Budweiser Budvar on the same shelf.

Beer delivery truck from the 1930’s.

While the story was complicated, the beer tour was fun and the beer is very good. We took the English language tour with a couple from Poland, Austria, the Netherlands, and a daughter and father from Hungary. So of the 10 people on the English language tour I was the only native English speaker!

Standing by my dream bottle of beer.

When we came out of the brewery it was raining steadily so we splurged and took a Bolt (Uber equivalent) back to François to settle in for the night. Tomorrow and Saturday are supposed to rain all day so we will see how hardy we are feeling.

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